Thursday, June 21, 2012

A few more pictures of Prague - what a funny place!

 Prague penguins - they are real ones I can tell.
 The first I saw of this very large black baby was the rear end......
then I saw the face.....hideous!
 helen couldn't quite work out what this was....
....and something seems a little strange here.

Monday, June 18, 2012

We leave Russia and "do Prague"


It was wonderful cruising along the waterway although we didn’t get much rest at all. Mother Volga is a huge river and at 2500 miles in length it is actually the longest in Europe. In Russia the river has mythological status and has been serenaded in poems paintings and music. Itinerant labourers known as burlaks hauled the boats along the riverbank and it is these hard working folk that are commemorated in the song of  the Volga Boatmen.  When we were in Yaroslavl; where the river reaches a width of 2600 feet we were entertained by a quartet who sang this wonderful song magnificently.

Yaroslavl is one of the oldest provincial Russian cities and belongs to The Golden Ring. We were duly impressed by the red brick Church of the Epiphany with its 5green domes and the Church of Elijah the Prophet.  Then we wandered around for a while and Helen and I managed to find a bride and groom celebrating the traditional toasting and glass smashing in the street. Brides are everywhere!. We turned back again at Yaroslavl to enter the direct waterway towards Moscow and headed for Uglich. Uglich saw us visiting more churches including The Church of Demetrius on the Blood which marks the spot where 9 year old Dimitri was murdered.
Just past Uglich is a lock built between 1935 and 1940 along with a hydroelectric power station and a pressure dam. The reservoir thus created is 96 miles long and a famous symbol of the area is the 230 foot high tower of the church at Kalyazin rising out of the water. This is all that remains of the town.

From there it was into the Moscow Canal. The project to link Moscow to the Volga was a huge undertaking and consists of 11 locks ( a height difference of 161 feet) 8 power stations, 5 pump stations and 15 bridges  We passed the outskirts of Moscow , under the St Petersburg Highway Bridge and reached the river Terminal in the Khimki Reservoir beside the old Northern River Station building which is about 280 feet high.

The Russian emphasise the foundation dates of cities and it was often mentioned that the city had been founded by Yuri Dolgoruki and the first written reference to the city dates to 1147.
So we began our round of visits - The Kremlin, Red Square (fenced off) the Metro, the canal system, the streets, shops, boulevards, statues and parks. We attended a folk concert and paid a visit to a monastery 70 kilometres to the north. This is the heart of The Russian Orthodox Church and it was a great day. We lunched in a little restaurant – salmon wrapped in foil and potatoes. Beer and wine were the drinks of the day. Souvenirs here were cheap as many were made in the town.  Now we have lots of bit and pieces and the bags are getting heavier. One pair of shoes has gone!

We did a fabulous tour of Moscow lights by night which culminated with being at Red Square in the pouring rain at midnight. But we saw it through the raindrops and managed some photos of St Basils. While in Moscow we visited the Treasury and saw the fabulous Faberge eggs – wouldn’t mind one of those! All too soon it was time to leave our boat and head to the airport for our flight to Prague.
Memories and impressions of Russia and our cruise
·                     Russians have a great sense of the ridiculous and can deliver the most outrageous statements with a straight face.
·                     Russians speak excellent English
·                     Russian food is very good.
·                     People pop up singing all over the place – it is a land of much music and song.
·                     The grass in many of the park is mown weeds and dandelions are made into head bands by many. People pick bunches of them -  all a matter of perspective.
·                     The city of Moscow does not sprawl  - high rise apartments dominate the residential scene.
·                     Very high heeled shoes are popular.
·                     The rich are rich!!!!!!
·                     Many people fish from the shores of the waterways and there were lots of campsites.
·                     People who complain are a pain and they should be thrown overboard.
·                     Robert was a good companion for the trip!

 Making rock candy at the Chocolate Museum in Prague
 Marzipan fruits at the Museum - they were beautiful
 See Prague in style!
 Inside Prague Castle
One of the many brides.

Prague.
Thank goodness we have now been there! The Czech transport system is excellent and it is very easy to negotiate. The language skills of the people put us to shame – most people spoke excellent English. We did the touristy things and spent hours at the Castle. We walked along the river, laughed at the penguins, enjoyed the architecture, drank much wine and beer, saw thousands of tourist shops, crossed The Charles Bridge 5 times, visited several restaurants, looked at the famous non working clock, walked down Wenceslas Square (a bit disappointing!), watched the football, attended a wonderful and classy concert with dinner at The Mozart Café, explored the Old Town and almost died of the heat.
I was abandoned by Tony and Helen as Tony did not listen to what I said – they returned to the hotel without me!!! Not impressed – but I made it back without any trouble.
We got misplaced! This was due to the fact that the train failed to proceed, the lights went out and the doors were opened. We got off!
Our accommodation at The Bishops House was extremely well located, quite a nice room, an excellent and modern bathroom, a satisfactory breakfast and friendly desk staff. Our room was a tad dark and the one chair a bit uncomfortable. Helen’s room was much brighter and she had a chair and desk as well as a jug. I think they must have given her my room!!!! It was a good choice (thanks Raechel) but ask for Room 106 not 104! I’ll do a review for Trip Advisor when I get a chance.
Remembering Margaret’s tales of jam and cream on meat we hoped to find it. Bingo – first meal that we ordered. Didn’t seem too silly to us as it was exactly as described on the menu! Had a couple of excellent Czech meals in other places as well as some good salads. Prices are pretty good in this part of the world. I now have added reindeer (Russia) and goose (Czech Republic) to the things I have eaten.
Photo tally – about a million!
And my opinion of Prague – I liked it. Is it the most beautiful city in Europe? – each city has its own beauty and style. Prague is one of many wonderful places which really cannot be compared.
 One for Margaret to revive her memories!
 Wandering down Wenceslas Square
 The chocolate is pretty good in Prague
 Impressive stained glass in St Vitus Cathedral. Prague Castle
 View from the top of the hill. It was quite a walk in the heat!


We are now on the train heading through the Czech Republic to Vienna! The country side is rich and green. I just saw the first set of solar panels on a farmhouse. It all seems very peaceful and pleasant. Actually we have arrived as it is now later at night.

Monday, June 11, 2012

Moscow - See the Russians everywhere, Dancing in their underwear, ho, ho ho ho ho HO!

Phew! We have seen an amazing amount - the blog is way way behind and the picture sorting, culling etc is even worse. We have barely had a spare moment - this cruising business is hard work. We have filled every available moment with a trip to somewehere. We are now in Moscow, on the river, beside a park. Have been wandering the countryside today and tonight is a late bus trip to see the lights and a river cruise so I best get the body organised! I must do a bit of writing of detail tomorrow afternoon if I get the chance. We are off on the Metro tomorrow into the centre of the city. There will be a large protest in Red Square so we might not be able to get in to have a really good look. We have peeped in through the gates! Also spent hours in The Kremlin and we have seen the Faberge eggs.

I just sorted the pictures from our first full day and thought that I would post a couple of The Winter Palace - I did not know where to begin. Such an amazing building with an equally amazing history. The contents could be summed up in one word - WOW!






Saturday, June 9, 2012

A vodka toast and a little bit of scenery.



At the ballet in St Petersburg


Off to the land of White Nights


Our adventure got off to an excellent start – Phil and Marg drove us to the station and we caught the 1:30 train to Central. Our airport transfer was smooth and we met Helen shortly before 6. At check in time we were offered an earlier flight with lots of extra leg room and a trip to the Emirates lounge. We accepted and, with not all that much time to spare, we pretended we were rich! 2 glasses of Verve Cliquot and some very nice nibblies set me up for the flight. We ended up flying via Bangkok and many hours later arrived in Dubai. Thence onto St Petersburg – a very different airport to Dubai. Progress through immigration was slow but faster than getting through Washington. Our only concern was that our driver was only booked for an hour and we exceeded that time.  Having finally got through immigration and non existent customs we were very pleased to see a young man holding up a “Barbara Harper” notice. Although we only had 3 undersized bags they wouldn’t fit in the boot so we put one in the car – off we set through some very crazy traffic to our hotel. After 32 hours of travel and still wearing the same socks we arrived at the Nevsky Express. Our driver was excellent.
Through a back door we went and into an establishment that looked a trifle run down - if you had never stayed in a small European hotel before you may have been horrified. We negotiated our arrival and had what turned out to be a very pleasant experience – entering via the front door was more encouraging. The staff, mostly non English speakers, were friendly and helpful and the room itself was spotless. The bed was comfy and the shower was hot. We are apparently the first Australians to stay at this place under this management and we were made most welcome.
Then it was time for a little exploration. Just amazing! We found a very colourful orange fast food / pancake shop where we had a very Russian dinner. No English spoken at all! I had borsch (unlike any I have ever before), Tony thought he was having a buckwheat pancake but ended up with buckwheat and Helen had a pancake with pork and pickles. I even had a beer (nothing else to drink!). It was delicious and very very cheap.
Breakfast was excellent.
Then more walking – and a few hundred photos of some strange and amazing things.
Our taxi was booked for 12 and I was hoping that I had explained clearly that when we got to the indicated area he was not to leave until we were sure we had found the boat. The price was negotiated to be 900 roubles. As we had been warned that the boat might change location the very helpful young man at the hotel rang the shipping line – no answer – so off we set.
Our arrival at the point we were heading for indicated that the boat was on the other side of the river so off we set again. The driver was clearly a little uncomfortable as this was taking longer than expected – he found our boat for us and when last seen he was waving and smiling broadly. We did not stick to the quoted price and our tip was obviously what was needed.
The boat (not called the same as we had expected from our booking) is better than expected. Food is excellent, as is the wine, tea and coffee at all times and a very comfortable cabin. Ours is quite spacious – Helen’s is micro but still very comfortable. We have booked some optional times and we are considering some little purchases in the gift shop! The WiFi seems to be operating, though we have been warned that further north we will lose the connection.
It is now 10:30 – I am about to make the trip down the corridor (do you call it a corridor?) and get a cup of tea. The sky is still light – but we have excellent block out curtains. Tomorrow  -  a trip to The Hermitage and tomorrow evening “Swan Lake”. Should be a great day. The weather is fine -  just worn a light long sleeve top today.

The St Petersburg experience continues…….
Our first land trip with the tour group was to The Hermitage, the largest art gallery in the country. The most special of all its buildings (for me) was the Winter Palace, built between 1754 and 1762. The design was by Bartolommeo Rastrelli, a name we have heard often since we arrived. Catherine the Great began the collection in 1764 and there are now more than 3 million items. It was quite an impressive collection including works by Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Rubens, Monet, Manet, Gaugin and more. Lots of people, lots of rules!!!!!
During the afternoon we listened to a concert by the Mariinsky Theatre. Then back to the Hermitage to see Swan Lake. What excellent costumes, sets and orchestra! The ballet was also good though some non ballet fans had a little nap.
We were somewhat tired by bedtime but were up early on Sunday for a drive to Tsarskoye Selo (Tsar’s Village) or Pushkin to visit the palace given to Catherine in 1708. This palace had been built for Peter the Great and was burnt to the ground during the great siege. Now it is restored to its former glory and has a very impressive 600 foot blue, white and gold façade. The Amber Room which we were not allowed to photograph was amazingly magnificent. The gold walls of the halls and the shiny mirrors were also pretty special. During the afternoon it was off to the Peter and Paul fortress – the original citadel and birthplace of the city and then more exploration of the city and Nevsky Prospect. Night time saw us enjoying the Folklore Cossack show in a tent on the shore near the ship.
We decided to pay for some extra tours as well as doing the included ones and, as a result, set off for Peterhof Grand Palace and Park early on Monday morning. It turned out to be a fabulous day weather wise and our exploration of Peter the Great’s Versailles by the Sea was tremendous. The famed Grand Cascade of 3 waterfalls, 64 fountains and 37 statues (12 miles of water movement all without pumping stations) was accompanied by music as the water started to flow. The sun was shining, people were everywhere and the sky was blue. There are souvenir shops everywhere – lots of street vendors and matryoshka dolls pop up all over the place. The flowers in the gardens were in full bloom – lots of tulips in particular. We even saw The Gulf of Finland – I liked that!
Our next afternoon activity was a cruise along the canals of the city. We sat outside even though it was quite cool and at times were sitting on the floor of the boat as the bridges were very very low. Another great excursion.
The long long hours of daylight means that we have been able to look at the scenery until almost midnight and at 10 on Monday night we sailed out of the Neva River and into Lake Lagoda, passing an old fortress, Schluesselburg. Lake Lagoda is Europe’s largest freshwater lake and 70 rivers add their icy flow to its volume.
Tuesday was time for some lectures and learning and then we arrived at Mandrogy. (Verchnie Mandrogi). The 29 homesteads were burned down during the war of 1941-1945. The township has been reconstructed and is now home to 150 people and workers who create and sell crafts. Helen and I had fun here painting our own nesting dolls. The town did not offer us a job in their factories – we were too good!
Kizhi Island was Thursday morning’s start to the day. We landed early and set off at 8. The island itself is right near the centre of Lake Onega and is 3 ½ miles long and ½ mile wide. Kizhi Pogost consists of 2 major churches and a bell tower. This area was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and the Russian Cultural Heritage List. The wooden domed churches have been built without nails and we saw a shingle maker cutting the shingles from what I think was birch – extremely light wood in both colour and weight. It ages to a beautiful shimmery silver. The icon wall inside the Russian Orthodox church was beautiful and we were able to take photographs. There is also a wonderful old farmhouse and we explored its nooks and crannies – it had lots of furniture, stoves, looms, tools and sleds. Our tourist guide spoke clearly and well – she was a lovely young lady.
And then, leisurely sailing along the Volga Baltic Canal – lots of huge locks, hydroelectric power stations, dredges, timber wharves, boats, and the occasional fisherman. We are now sailing across the Rybinsk Reservoir which sadly had to flood houses and churches. Such is the price of progress. We have decided not to attend this morning’s history lecture but this afternoon we are landing at Kuzino for an afternoon in the Russian provinces.
We have no complaints except that the internet is very slow and we have not actually been able to send messages. I doubt that I will be able to upload any photos until we get to Moscow but I will try. We have taken lots. We have many power points in our room so it is easy to recharge. Health wise we are faring well except for the odd stomach gurgle and some mosquito bites.  Every meal has been different and there is always a selection of meat/ fish or vegetarian for the evening meal. Lunch and breakfast are buffet meals. I had brussel sprouts this morning - I figured one should try what is presented!  I have eaten all sorts of things regardless of the hour of the day – it is always a reasonable time somewhere!
Helen has been upgraded to a full sized room.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Another adventure begins - Russia and beyond.

Today we fly out of Sydney and head for Russia! That is an amazing concept - somewhere I never imagined that I would go. There will be 3 of us on this voyage - Tony, Helen and myself. The basic plans have been made for a very  long time and the 3 of us are looking forward to our cruise from St Peterburg  (no "s" in Russian) to Moscow, then Prague and a little exploration of the Czech Republic, Austria and Germany. With any luck we will manage a drive into Switzerland as well.
Not much to do now - charge the phone batteries, a few little jobs around the house and at 1 we are heading to the station. Plenty of time for a leisurely train trip to the airport where we are meeting Helen.
The only sad part is missing the family while we are away, especially the twins. They will be so big by the time we return - I hope they don't forget us.